The incredible little UK city with 150 independent shops - not York, Oxford or Bath

Just seven miles from Stonehenge lies Salisbury, a city that effortlessly blends centuries of history with a vibrant spirit, filled with independent shops alongside familiar chains, fascinating tales of times past, and one of the oldest and most haunted pubs in the country. Known for its stunning cathedral, independent shops, and rich heritage, Salisbury in Wiltshire has been welcoming visitors since 1227.

At the heart of the city stands Salisbury Cathedral, home to Britain's tallest spire at 404 feet, the world's oldest working mechanical clock, and one of the best-preserved original copies of the Magna Carta. Around this architectural marvel, the city's streets are lined with buildings that tell stories of a bygone era, while the city itself buzzes with contemporary culture, events, and plenty of independent shops to choose from.

As you approach Salisbury Cathedral, you'll smell the irresistible aroma of homemade fudge made at Roly's Fudge Pantry, which is located by the historic medieval high street gate, leading into the breathtaking Salisbury Cathedral and grounds. The shop is proudly independent and opened in 2015. Visitors can watch traditional fudge being made right before their eyes, filling the air with the sweet scent of freshly crafted treats as they enter the cathedral grounds.

Salisbury city centre is home to over 150 independent businesses, according to the Salisbury BID. One of these is the independent gift shop, Stuff Emporium, located on Winchester Street, just moments away from Salisbury Market and the beautiful Guildhall Square.

Three years ago, at just 24, Kellie Gentle became Salisbury's youngest business owner when she opened the shop, which stocks products from over 40 small businesses, local artisans, and a few select bigger brands.

Ms Gentle, who has been living in Salisbury her whole life, told the Express: "We've got quite a high percentage of independents. Winchester Street is actually all independent, it's like a little hub."

She also often has a stand at Salisbury Charter Market, a lively market held twice a week in the historic Market Place. With roots dating back to 1227, the market offers a great mix of stalls, from fresh meats, fish, fruit and vegetables, and cheeses, to clothing, accessories, flowers, collectables, and pet products. Foodies are well catered for too, with hog roast, nachos, pizza, and international cuisines such as Thai, Indian, and South African, so you'll never go hungry while browsing.

She added: "There's a really lovely community atmosphere. We get a lot of local shoppers and even people travelling just to come here. One couple drove four and a half hours from Brighton just to visit the shop!"

Crystals, artisan crafts, and local produce reflect the city's past, while the architecture blends centuries-old charm with modern offerings, none more striking than the Odeon Cinema, formerly The Gaumont Palace. Ms Gentle said that no visit to Salisbury is complete without seeing this remarkable cinema. The cinema opened in 1931 and is built around a Grade I listed Tudor Gothic building, formerly the home of 15th-century wool merchant John Halle.

Its foyer retains original oak beams and historic features, while the auditorium was designed in Tudor style with murals, plaster beams, and a restaurant with inglenook fireplaces. It was later converted into multiple screens. Threatened with closure in 1986, the cinema was saved by community action and remains a historic gem blending centuries-old architecture with cinematic history.

She said Salisbury is such a special place, with its rich history, stunning architecture, and even the cinema, which has preserved its centuries-old design. It's a city that 'blends the past and the present,' offering a wide range of events for both residents and visitors.

No visit to Salisbury is complete without stepping inside The Haunch of Venison, one of the country's oldest and most haunted pubs, with origins dating back to 1320. Originally used to house craftsmen working on the Cathedral spire, the pub is steeped in history and legend. Its enormous oak beams are believed to have come from early sailing vessels, and it is famous for its mummified hand, said to belong to an 18th-century card player caught cheating. The original hand was stolen several times, so a replica is now securely locked behind an iron gate, adding to the pub's eerie charm.

The Haunch of Venison's interior is a treasure trove of historical features. The 'Horsebox' bar, once a 'Ladies' Snug,' retains its original pewter top, one of only five in the UK, according to CAMRA and a rare wooden carved arch with seven gravity-fed spirit taps, installed in 1909. There are no dispensers on the counter; the hand pumps are affixed to the bar back, a rare surviving design. During World War II, Winston Churchill and Dwight Eisenhower are said to have visited the pub while planning the D-Day landings.

The pub has recently earned a place on The Telegraph's list of the best 500 pubs in England and is featured in the list of the '25 Pubs in the UK You Must Drink in Before You Die' and included on CAMRA's National Inventory for its historic interior.

Anastasia Samoilova has owned the pub with her sister, Anna Samoilova, and her husband, Ilia Klekovkin, since 2015.

Anastasia Samoilova told the Express: "It's one of the few pubs left with a whole pewter bar top the only one in the country that's completely original."

She added: "We're a Grade II* listed building and it's the whole thing, not just the interior.

"The mummified hand was stolen in 2010 and when it was returned, people said it was cursed. Now we have a replica.

"We get a mix of tourists and regulars, locals love telling stories to the visitors."

She said that the pub has over 700 years of history and that there are stories of a secret cellar connecting the pub to the nearby church, which people could once use to access the pub. Although the cellar is now blocked, traces of it, like a square-shaped opening, are still visible, she told us.

"The pub is famous as well as Winston Churchill used to visit here because during the Second World War he was staying in Wilton House."

Both staff and visitors have reported a range of unexplained happenings at the pub: "When we first took over, when we didn't have CCTV yet, we'd come in the morning and find the chairs in different positions. Once, they were all next to the fireplace like the ghosts were warming up.

"One of our bartenders texted us one night at 2am saying he could hear someone moving chairs upstairs but no one was there.

"People still claim their drinks move off the tables by themselves."

However, it sounds like the haunting may be also a positive presence: "I think the spirit is really good. I always feel a very nice atmosphere here. The building dates back to the 14th century and you can feel the power of it. Sometimes I make a wish here, and it comes true."

Food is another point of pride at the pub: "We buy a whole deer and use every part for burgers and sausages for our trio of venison. You can't find that kind of quality anywhere else."

"If I go out to eat, I want something I can't get at home. That's what we try to do here. Our food and our pub both honour history, we cook with wild meat and serve it in a place where people have gathered for 700 years."

We also got an exclusive look inside the hidden bar down stairs that's hidden away and accessed through an underground staircase.

For Halloween, the pub is exceptionally opening its hidden downstairs bar to the public, with specially themed décor that makes the experience feel extra special.

Visitors can sense the power of history and the stories embedded in the walls, beams, and woodwork. Some beams even bear traces of ancient markings, which look like protective symbols or witch marks meant to ward off evil spirits.

Amarie Humphreys, 39, who moved from London, said it is a beautiful place to live with the cathedral, and you can have picnics on the grass when the sun is out, lots of grenenry and good schools, making it a great place for families.

She said the cathedral is "beautiful" and moved to Salisbury just before Covid-19.

Jayne Paessler-Whatley is the owner of Townhouse Emporium and My Comic Heroes on 46 Catherine Street. At the front of the shop, Townhouse Emporium serves as a marketplace for local traders, offering a mix of artisan crafts, homewares, and gifts from over 100 small businesses. At the back, My Comic Heroes has been trading for 15 years and is packed with trading cards, games, comics, and memorabilia

She told the Express: "The history here is incredible. We have ghost hunts here, people come from all over the country to do haunted walks. The Haunch of Venison's always a stop, and there are so many stories hidden in these old buildings.

"The buildings are all connected, slotted together over centuries. You can still see 500-year-old roofs hidden behind the modern shops."

Even though Salisbury is officially a city, it often feels like a big town, where everyone knows each other, especially among the independents

She said: "It's quite a nice community because the independents will all shout each other out."

With its ancient cathedral, thriving independent spirit and stories whispering from every timber and stone, Salisbury is a city where past and present meet at every turn. From its haunted pub to centuries-old markets, creative artisans and family-run shops, this medieval city continues to enchant all who wander its cobbled streets.