I watched a snowman burn in this European city's strange ritual

Each year the people of Zurich burn a giant effigy of a snowman on Sechseläutenplatz, the city’s central square.

How long it takes the snowman to burn – and the time it takes the flames to lick the bundle of fireworks encased in its head, setting off an explosion – dictates how good summer in the Swiss city will be.

This year, it took 26 minutes and 30 seconds for the ZurichBöögg to explode, denoting an “average” summer season. Although you wouldn’t think so given the dazzling sunshine and hordes of people rushing to bathe in the badis (swimming areas) dotted across the city.

Zurich is a city of contradictions. There’s the Old Town with its traditional coffee shops all offering authentic Swisschocolate and hot drinks.

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There’s the bustling financial district, with smart business people looking just a little out of place in the heat. There’s Zurich West, a gentrified suburb well suited to creative types. And then there are the incredible bathing spots hidden around the city – the badis.

It was the promise of so much outdoor bathing that drew me to the city in the first place. When one thinks of Switzerland, outdoor swimming might not be the first activity that springs to mind.

But in the metropolis of Zurich, workers and tourists love nothing more than jumping into the clear freshwater rivers and lakes.

After flying in on Swiss International Air Lines, my first stop is the Unterer Letten – the city’s oldest riverside bathing facility on the Limmat River.

This badi offers free entry, with lifeguards on duty and diving boards if you want to jump from a fairly sizable height.

There’s also access via stairs for anyone a little more reticent, as well as spots for showering and sunbathing.

Within moments I’m swept up in the current, with both the welcome swoop of adrenaline and the reassurance of a barrier at the end of the pool preventing swimmers from drifting off into the ether.

If you’re looking for something wilder, Oberer Letten down river offers a more open-water swimming spot, where bars and cafes are dotted along the banks.

In summer, both spots are busy – but it is still easy enough to keep myself to myself as I enjoy the crystal-clear blue water.

It’s a persistent rumour that bankers from the financial district simply strip to their trunks and take the river home to avoid public transport, and if you live along the route the current would definitely make it easy enough.

I spot a fair few people sporting Dry Bags to keep their valuables safe while they drift along, ready to climb out at a spot that suits them.

Walking along the river, I come across a Round Rivers pop-up shop. This swimwear hotspot offers one-pieces and bikinis made from recycled plastics that have been fished out of the river. Nearby, bag boutique QWSTION offers satchels and laptop cases constructed from compostable banana leaf.

Zurich’s eco-friendly side is celebrated everywhere, especially when it comes to keeping its treasured waterways pure.

Of course, for anyone wanting a more sedate swimming experience, there is always Lake Zurich.

Forming a centrepiece to the vibrant city, the tranquil lake has specialised pools with duty lifeguards to ensure swimmers stay out of the way of any approaching boats.

I bathe at both Seebad Utoquai and Seebad Enge, which both offer mixed bathing facilities, but there are separate men-only and women-only areas too.

A highlight of the trip is swimming alongside small fish and being able to see them clear as day. They’re not shy creatures, either – one of them almost makes it to my foot before darting away.

My base for the trip is the 25Hours hotel in Zurich West, a quirky spot with a 25m outdoor lap pool, sauna and bike hire.

Each room comes stocked with its own yoga mat and sports equipment, colourful decor and a minibar.

The hotel restaurant, Ribelli, is excellent – don’t miss the swordfish.

Swimming aside, Zurich quickly became one of my favourite European cities for its incredible selection of restaurants, its quaint Old Town, and the bumper crop of museums.

The design museum, Museum für Gestaltung, has an entire archive buried beneath its floors showcasing everything from crisp packets to musical instruments.

The Swiss Finance Museum, a short walk away from my hotel, gives a concise history of the country’s banking system.

If you buy a Zurich Card, £27 per day, or £56 for three days, available through the Zurich City Guide App, it gives you free and unlimited use of trams, buses, trains, boats and cable cars, a selection of lake and river cruises, free entry to the most popular museums, and various discounts on
city tours.

As for restaurants, you can’t miss Markthalle.
Set at the back of a bustling market-turned-farm shop, the menu changes daily, depending on what’s in season, so everything is served fresh.
Its quaint outdoor courtyard could be somewhere in rural England,
but with the added bonus of hearty Swiss meals.

Fish is a staple of most menus – not surprising, considering the easy access to freshwater spots
across the city.

Whether you’re visiting for a relaxing summer vacation or a city break, Zurich really does have it all. I’ll be back in the badis next year – and hopefully the snowman burns a little quicker for 2026.

GET THERE

Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) offers more than 160 flights from Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham, and Edinburgh to Zurich or Geneva. One-way fares from £76 to Zurich, from £54 to Geneva, including 23kg checked luggage and one piece of hand luggage. swiss.com

BOOK IT

Rooms at the 25hours hotel in Zurich West, from £180 per night including breakfast. 25hours-hotels.com

• The Zurich Card is priced at £27 for 24 hours, £52 for 72 hours.
  zuerich.com/en/zurich-card-city-guide-app/zurich-card

MORE INFO

SWITZERLAND.COM, ZUERICH.COM/EN